Goodbye Tailors: 3 Ready-To-Wear Fashion Brands That Actually Fit Short Men - The Manual

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• Goodbye Tailors: 3 Ready-To-Wear Fashion Brands That Actually Fit Short Men - The Manual
• Inside out trousers: Kositchek's clothing store comes back with curbside service - City Pulse
• Dallas men's custom apparel brand J. Hilburn files for bankruptcy - The Dallas Morning News
• Golf clothing: What dress code is it under the golf tradition? - South Florida Caribbean News

Goodbye Tailors: 3 Ready-To-Wear Fashion Brands That Actually Fit Short Men - The Manual Posted: 21 May 2020 09:39 AM PDT Ash and Eerie Jeff — a former software engineer who is now a lawyer specializing in startups — got dumped on the eve of his wedding. He hadn't been taking care of himself physically and mentally, and this wake-up call was just the motivation he needed to make a change. "I got a hair transplant, started working out, and completely rebuilt my image," Jeff, who prefers to not use his last name for professional reasons, tells The Manual. "I found it difficult, though, to find off-the-rack clothing that fit me." Jeff lives in New York City, and at 41 years old has a successful career. Why should finding clothes be an issue? Jeff is also 5'1".  He's not alone. According to U.S. census data, around 30% of men between the ages of 20 and 60 are under 5'8". "If the population is a bell curve, the majority of men fall between 5'8" to 6'1"," says Alan Au of Jimmy Au's, a Sherman Oaks, Calif., retailer that specializes in apparel for men 5'8" and under. "That's 60 to 65 percent of the population; but there are actually twice as many guys who are 'short' — less than 5'8" — than there are tall men 6'2" and over."   But in the past decade, a surge of ready-to-wear clothing lines tailored for shorter people has made it easier for guys like Jeff to update their wardrobes without constantly resorting to tailoring. "I tried to find styles that would be tighter-fitting on anybody else, but would end up normal on me," Jeff says of his shopping woes. "I [ended up] getting all my clothes custom-made." Jeff buys his underwear and T-shirts at H&M to save money for those custom-made splurges, but can't buy regular T-shirts off the rack because they're too baggy.  According to Au, many shorter men end up shopping in the boys' department. "The quality is not the same," he points out. "Men can afford — and want — quality. Parents are not going to spend the same amount on clothing that they know their kid is going to outgrow … Also, even though the length is right, the proportions are still not. A tailor can't fix a lapel or a chest pocket that lands in the wrong place. The spacing of buttons on a jacket won't be right." Ash and Eerie And it's even more more difficult to alter men's regular-sized clothing. For example, with jeans, you'd have to watch out for the wash since the wear is never in the right place, Au notes. Even with regular dress pants, the knees aren't usually in the right place, and the rise is too full. From a fashion standpoint, the last 15 years or so haven't been so bad; as cropped, slim-fit looks have allowed shorter men to find some looks that work, "but the proportions are still off and can make you look like an adolescent," says Au. He echoes what Jeffrey says about denim, that so much of what is available is extremely  basic, coming only in black, charcoal, and navy. "Shorter men are often forced to settle."  Luckily an increasing number of shops, like Au's, are geared to help this demographic.  "My father (Jimmy) has been keeping track of measurements from his custom business for years," says Au. "We now use that data to create a complete collection, from suits to casual clothes." The shop is designed to make shorter men feel comfortable, complete with proportional furniture and displays. Even during the pandemic business shutdown, Jimmy Au's was busy mailing out a jogger jean in a summer-weight denim to its regular clients.  Online clothing stores like The Modest Man and Short Guy Central offer everything from styling and alterations advice to dating and image inspiration. Especially handy are their links to shopping opportunities.  A relatively recent addition to the shopping lists; Detroit, Michigan-based Ash and Erie offers a complete online shopping experience. Started by Steven Mazur and Eric Huang, the site was started to "solve a personal problem. We couldn't find clothes that fit right, so we decided to make them ourselves." They interviewed and fitted hundreds of guys who are 5'8" and below, and designed from the ground up, creating shorter lengths in sleeves and pants. They also make sure shirts' collar lengths are shorter so the proportions are right. The rise in our trousers is shorter. Pockets land in the right place. Arm holes are designed to be more comfortable." Ash and Erie even address the denim problem, offering jeans where the wash is proportioned correctly and fading lands in the right place.  Peter Manning The duo's appeal goes beyond shorter men. They also scored an appearance on Shark Tank, landing a $150,000 investment from billionaire Mark Cuban.  "Our customers have been very vocal, talking about the positive impact our clothes have had on first dates and job interviews," Huang says. "Having clothes that fit right provides them with the confidence they deserve." Other brands offering a focus for shorter guys are New York-based Peter Manning, which offers a Trunk Club or Warby Parker-style service where men can try clothes on at home before purchasing. Bonobos also offers some short-fit trouser options.  Au points out that his Beverly Hills-adjacent store also serves a celebrity clientele, including Danny Devito, keeping a four-season wardrobe available at all times for costume designers. "We offer a range for short men of all sizes, too; fitting men who are not portly, but big," he says. "Yet we also dress a lot of jockeys."  Jeff, does offer one word of caution to his fellow shoppers who still like made-to-measure. "It's hard to keep it cost-effective. Just remember that a lot of these newer custom places are all backed by venture capitalists. They are, in effect, subsidizing the cost of your suit. Once that money runs out, prices will creep back up. Still, a 'cheap' custom suit is way better looking than a 'tailored' regular suit." Editors' Recommendations

Inside out trousers: Kositchek's clothing store comes back with curbside service - City Pulse Posted: 21 May 2020 01:19 PM PDT Lawrence Cosentino THURSDAY, May 21 — You usually have to turn a suit or a pair of pants inside out to finish an alteration. Turning the whole store inside out is a new wrinkle, even for one of downtown Lansing's retail anchors, 160-year-old Kositchek's men's clothing store. With COVID-19 restrictions on in-person business still in effect, owner David Kositchek is hoping to re-open the store soon and resume his store's trademark personalized service safely. In the meantime, he's offering curbside service Thursday, Friday and Saturday, May 21-23, from noon to 3 p.m. Thursday afternoon, 16-year Kositchek's employee Carl Dorman ran some alterations out to a customer in a sleek black Mustang. On the sidewalk, passers-by ogled a colorful buffet of shirts, suits, shoes and other spring items displayed in the 100-foot-long store window, with numbers sticking out of their necks. "It's old-school window shopping," Kositchek said. "They tell us what number they'd like in the window, we do our best to find it in their size and we walk it out to their car." Shirts were the biggest sellers and a few suits went out the door Thursday, but customers seem to relish any chance to return to a semblance of normal. Shortly before helping the man in the black Mustang, Dorman ran some ordinary, off-the-rack socks, underwear and a belt to a longtime Kositchek's supporter. "Those things are easy to buy without hands-on tailoring, but people want to support local business," Dorman said. Longtime employee Lori Froh set up a table and chairs in the lobby, fielded calls from longtime clients and ran shoes and other items out to the curb. "We'll be doing it for the next two weeks until the Governor allows to open," owner David Kositchek said. "It gives people a chance to get out of their house, be outside and enjoy shopping without going inside." Kositchek has seen sport shirts, sport coats and shoes go out the door, as people shop for Father's day, anniversaries and birthdays. "It feels good, and it allows our team to re-engage," Kositchek said. "We're also earning to keep social distance from our co-workers, use masks, wash our hands and keep the store sanitized." "It's nice to get back and doing something," Dorman said. "Hopefully, we'll be open soon, but this will get our engine moving." To find the closest thing to curbside sales in Kositchek's history, you'd have to go back to David's great-grandfather, Henry, an Austrian immigrant who started out by selling clothes from the back of a wagon. Henry Kositchek opened his first store in 1865 at 141 S. Main St. in Eaton Rapids, and moved the store to 113 N. Washington Ave. in Lansing in 1869, a dogleg stroll from the state's newly minted Capitol. The store passed to David's father, Louis (aka "Mr. K") in 1925, and to David's father, Richard, in 1967. David, who has worked at the store since 1962, took over in 1997. The current pandemic and attendant shelter-at-home orders are potent retail killers, but Kostichek's has survived nearly every major national crisis, including the Civil War, two world wars and the Great Depression. The store has been around so long it's now on its second big pandemic. The first was the 1918 Spanish flu outbreak. The late 20th century brought its own unique trials, from the rise of the Lansing and Meridian malls to the boom in online shopping and the spread of Casual Fridays. Through it all, the store's personal touch has kept it going, but that's what makes the social distance era such a unique challenge. The in-store hair salon, with three stylists on staff, is dark as well. "We're getting calls all the time from people who want to get their hair cut, but we're not going to bend on the legality," Kositchek said. "Our hair salon will open as soon as the governor allows it." Despite the adversity, Kostichek said he hasn't had to lay off any staffers, nearly all of which have been with the store for decades. A lot of regular customers are staying in touch, one way or another. "We're getting calls at our homes and our cell phones and getting emails," Kositchek said. "Yesterday I got an email from a guy who needed a white shirt for a wedding that's happening today. I went down and took care of him and got him the shirt." After eight weeks of hunkering down, Kositchek is grateful for any personal interaction with customers, however remote. "The store has never been about opening the front door and waiting for people to walk in," he said. "You have to be there when people need you." However, after many years of resistance, Kostichek has given his staff the go-ahead to launch a bigger online presence in the next month or so. "This is an unprecedented time and we're doing new things," he said. Dorman has been video conferencing with clients and stepping up the store's Facebook presence. "It's been an interesting time," Dorman said. Kositchek said the web site "will give people a little window as to what we have inside," but his heart's clearly not in it. "It won't be the same as coming in the store," he hastened to add. "Going online is not what we want to do. It's not going to sustain us. We have to be open and we're going to be brick and mortar."

Dallas men's custom apparel brand J. Hilburn files for bankruptcy - The Dallas Morning News Posted: 04 May 2020 12:00 AM PDT Dallas-based online men's custom clothing brand J. Hilburn has filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy. The company, which was founded in 2007 in Dallas and made it through the Great Recession as a startup, is trying to reorganize under the protection of the U.S. Bankruptcy Court in Dallas. The tailored men's clothing line tried to pivot some in recent years by adding more casual apparel, including jeans, but its main lines were formal wear, custom suits and shirts. The company laid off an undisclosed number of employees at its Dallas headquarters last month. "J.Hilburn has a loyal client base. We believe in our stylists, in the growth potential of the men's custom market, and in the ability of our management team to lead the company to future success," CEO David DeFeo said in a statement. "Together, the company and our stylists community, along with our loyal clients, will weather this economic turmoil and come out on the other side as a stronger and more successful business." DeFeo came to J. Hilburn last year from the Worth Collection, which is liquidating in a bankruptcy filed in February. DeFoe is J. Hilburn's third chief executive in three years. Similar to Worth, J. Hilburn sells through a network of personal stylists and directly to customers online. The company said it anticipates no interruptions in business, and all current and future orders will be filled. Stylists work on commission and meet with customers at their homes, offices or in showrooms in Dallas, New York, Boston and Bellevue, outside of Seattle. J. Hilburn owes $15,621 in rent to Inwood Village, where it opened its first showroom in 2016. J. Hilburn said in the initial filing that it has assets of under $10 million, but it owes more than that to vendors. Debts include $6.55 million to Hong Kong-based TAL Group, $806,052 to Portugal-based Criaimie Rua do Facho and $665,957 to the supply chain solutions division of UPS. It owes $2.73 million on a term loan with Austin-based Escalate Capital Partners. Several shareholders were listed from Dallas and Menlo Park, Calif. The company raised $13.8 million in 2013, and it's listed as an active investment of Boston-based Battery Ventures. Other shareholders listed in the filing are San Francisco-based Baseline Commerce Seed Fund, Menlo Park Bridgescale Partners, Dallas-based Buaite Againn LLP, Hong Kong-based South China (Jersey) Holdings and Dallas-based Lotus Holdings, which listed J. Hilburn co-founder and former CEO Veeral Rathod as a contact. Twitter: @MariaHalkias Looking for more retail coverage? Click here to read all retail news and updates. Click here to subscribe to D-FW Retail and more newsletters from The Dallas Morning News.

Golf clothing: What dress code is it under the golf tradition? - South Florida Caribbean News Posted: 21 May 2020 06:16 AM PDT When you're planning to play golf, you need to pay attention to your clothing too. To maintain the game decorum, golf clothing must be adequate. There's no spoken etiquette for clothing in golf. Though there is a rule to abide by the dress code when going to different golf courses. If you wish to play golf, you need to be well-aware of the dress code. Similar to the LPGA tour or PGA tour players' rules, there are not many restrictions on golf clothing. No doubt, the dress code is defined in such a manner so that a golf player abides by the protocol of the game. For knowing about the dress code of a certain club, look at the course management plan. Men dressing style in golf In tradition, a golf game involves wearing a suitable style of clothing to be worn while playing. Often, men get influenced by the forebear's Scottish clothing styles. Those Scottish men adopted tweed, caps, knickers, and plaid. In the present time also, the 2-tone shoes and knitted cardigan remain in style. Nowadays, golf players choose polo collar shirts on hot days. On the contrary, vests, sweaters, and golf jackets remain the clothing style in the cooler season. For more guidance, you can look upon the Windtree gold reviews. Shirt options Among all of the cases, men were required to wear a shirt with collars when visiting the golf clubs. In the shirt options, golf players are required to wear polyester, cotton, or microfiber golf shirt. Among some modern golf courses, golf players wear modern shirts with turtleneck collar. Among the tops to wear on the golf courses for women, there's a wide variety. It can be either a top with a collar or no collar top. Though, there's a need for all types of shirt or top to be under the modesty style of dressing. Also, the tube or bathing suits are not permitted for women. For both men and women, tank tops or T-shirts are not under permission. Pants styling For men, it is recommended to wear long-length polyester or cotton pants. Or flat front and pleated shorts are also permitted. In some courses, you may get permission for jeans, but not every course allows it. For women, it is permitted to wear shorts, capris, or long-length trousers. Or women can wear golf skirts too. Such types of garments have a V-notch or cut pleat over the side or front surface for motion purposes. Among the restricted pants, women and men are not permitted to wear workout shorts, running shorts, basketball shorts, or cut-off jeans. Variety of socks Among the dress code, socks are one of the essential clothing. It can be paired with any sports shoes or golf shoes. Of the entire attire for golf, socks come under the important ones. It is because the fibers in socks ensure a golfer to play with dry and comfortable feet. For golf socks, there are different varieties available. The golfers who prefer shorts can pair up with ankle-length socks which don't appear out from the shoes. Also, the golf course permits the tube socks, which are a traditional option. The etiquette to wear socks remains unspoken. Hats or caps In the list of dress code for golf, hats are not among one of the specifications. Though, it is an appropriate option to take away a headgear along with when you leave for playing golf. Among the widely preferred gold course hates, it can be a visor or baseball hat, which is suitable for both women and men. The primary consideration to take a hat in your golf dress code is they protect you from the sunlight. Also, it can be either a straw hat or Ben Hogan cap, which can be used. Among the inappropriate options for golf hats, it includes a gag hat beanie cap, cowboy hat, and dress fedora hat. Women dressing style in golf In golf clothing, women dressing styles include shorts, Capri pants, or long pants. Often, some of the women prefer wearing skorts. In some coordinates, women can wear jackets along with vests. Additionally, a windbreaker jacket or sweater can be good to carry in hand. For women accessories, some options include handbags, visors, hats, sunglasses, and belts. Pair of shoes In the list of golf equipment, footwear is given huge importance. To maintain comfort while playing, golf shoes are widely recommended. Generally, golf shoes enable a player to swing and allow sufficient traction to talk. If a round is played for long hours, golf shoes give the utmost comfort. In the golf shoes, there is a presence of spikes over the surface of soles. Often, some golf courses require spikes with high softness made up of plastic or rubber material and not metal. Sometimes, a golf player can accompany running shoes or sneakers. Though it is not always permitted to wear running shoes or sneakers. Most often, no permission is given for boots, sandals, and street shoes. Spread the love

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